Khandua

Khandua (Also Maniabandi or Kataki) is a traditional "bandha" or ikat sari produced from Odisha [1][2][3][4][5] worn by women during wedding [6][7] and a special type of which is worn by Jagannath. The clothes contain texts of Gita Govinda on them. [8] Kenduli Khandua, a special form of Khandua of 12 ft and 2 kani (each kani measures the length of a hand) is offered to Jagannath to wear as khandua with stanzas and illustration from Gita Govinda. [9][10]

Etymology

The word Khandua in Odia translates to the cloth worn in the lower half of the body. Traditionally Kentuli Khandua is offered to Jagannath as lower cloth. Due to the place of origin is Maniabandha of Cuttack district , the other two names Kataki and Maniabandhi are originated.[10]

History

Weaver communities of Maniabandha and Nuapatana[10][11] of Cuttack traditionally weave this kind of pata. During the rule of Gajapatis Sarees are made and transported to Jagannath Temple. Nilakantha Deva, the king of Badakhemundi was offered khandua sari made of one piece of khandua silk called caukandika.[12][13]

Color and Design

Khandua is traditionally red or orange in color. The red color is prepared naturally from the shorea robusta (sal tree). [7] The design motif has an auspicious elephant that represents Buddha surrounded by trailing vine with peacocks in it, a large many petaled flower, a unique Orissan animal called Nabagunjara, a deula kumbha. The elephant in Khandua ikat from Nuapatana usually varies from elephant motives in ikat from Sambalpuri sari as well as ikat from other parts of Orissa.[14] Khandua has plain borders in contrary to borders with motifs in case of the other ikat of Orissa. [15]

References
  1. P. K. Mohanty (1 January 2003). Tropical Wild Silk Cocoons Of India. Daya Publishing House. pp. 25–. ISBN 978-81-7035-298-3. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  2. Sorabji M. Rutnagur (1999). The Indian textile journal. Business Press. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  3. Linda Lynton; Sanjay K. Singh (October 1995). The sari: styles, patterns, history, techniques. H.N. Abrams. ISBN 978-0-8109-4461-9. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  4. Chelna Desai (1 December 1988). Ikat textiles of India. Chronicle Books. ISBN 978-0-87701-548-2. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  5. Eberhard Fischer; Sitakant Mahapatra; Dinanath Pathy (1980). Orissa. Museum Rietberg. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  6. Kōkyō Hatanaka (1996). Textile arts of India: Kokyo Hatanaka collection. Chronicle Books. ISBN 978-0-8118-1084-5. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  7. Aditi Ranjan; M. P. Ranjan (29 September 2009). Handmade in India: A Geographic Encyclopedia of India Handicrafts. Abbeville Press. ISBN 978-0-7892-1047-0. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  8. Museum für Völkerkunde und Schweizerisches Museum für Volkskunde Basel; Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff (1986). Golden sprays and scarlet flowers: traditional Indian textiles from the Museum of Ethnography, Basel, Switzerland. Shikosha Pub. Co. ISBN 9784879400161. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  9. Jagannath Mohanty (2009). Encyclopaedia of Education, Culture and Children's Literature: v. 3. Indian culture and education. Deep & Deep Publications. pp. 31–. ISBN 978-81-8450-150-6. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  10. Journal of social sciences. Kamla-Raj Enterprises. January 2004. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  11. Arts of Asia. Arts of Asia Publications. July 1982. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  12. Hermann Kulke (1993). Kings and cults: state formation and legitimation in India and Southeast Asia. Manohar Publishers & Distributors. ISBN 9788173040375. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  13. Hans Bakker (1992). The Sacred centre as the focus of political interest: proceedings of the symposium held on the occasion of the 375th anniversary of the University of Groningen, 5–8 March 1989. E. Forsten. ISBN 978-90-6980-036-3. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  14. Blenda Femenias; Elvehjem Museum of Art (1 December 1984). Two faces of South Asian art: textiles and paintings. Elvehjem Museum of Art. ISBN 9780932900067. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
  15. Ṛta Kapur Chishti; Martand Singh; Amba Sanyal (1989). Saris of India: Madhya Pradesh. Wiley Eastern & Amr Vastra Kosh. ISBN 978-81-224-0187-5. Retrieved 27 June 2012.
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