Kanzuri

Kanzuri (寒（かん）造（ず）里（り）, [kaɰ̃zɯɾi] KAHN-zoo-ri) is a type of Japanese fermented chili paste manufactured in Niigata Prefecture. Originally a traditional condiment from the Jōetsu region, the name "kanzuri" was trademarked in 1966 by the Kanzuri, Co. Ltd. of Myōkō, the sole maker of the product.

Kanzuri
A jar of kanzuri on display at a Marukai Market in West Covina
TypePaste
Place of originJapan
Region or stateNiigata Prefecture
Associated cuisineJapanese

Description

Kanzuri is a chili paste with a bright red color.[1] Its texture and flavor are similar to that of yuzu koshō, which is prepared with the identical principal ingredients, but kanzuri has a milder flavor that is sweeter and less salty.[2] The flavor of kanzuri is also comparable to that of Tabasco sauce or doubanjiang.[3]

Production

The process to make kanzuri typically takes approximately three to four years. The ingredients used are tōgarashi, yuzu, salt, and kōji mold.[4]

Production begins in April of the first year with the planting of the tōgarashi used for kanzuri.[4][5] The particular cultivar used for the making of kanzuri is known as S-30; it is locally grown and about three times larger than other tōgarashi.[6] These S-30 tōgarashi are harvested in the summer. The crop is rinsed with sea water, ground with yuzu and kōji mold, then left to ferment in barrels. In June or July, prior to the onset of peak summer heat, the barrels of fermenting tōgarashi are exposed to the air. This takes place from August until November.[5] During the coldest part of the year, typically around January 20, the tōgarashi are then laid out on snow to dry for several days in a traditional process known as kanzarashi or yukisarashi (Japanese: 雪さらし).[3][7] This is repeated several times until March. Exposure to the snow increases the potency of the tōgarashi's flavor[1] and removes excess salt and bitterness.[5] This process is repeated each year, after which the kanzuri is bottled and shipped to market.[5]

Different varieties of kanzuri may take longer to ferment, with one variety taking as long as six years.[4]

Kanzuri was trademarked by Kanzuri, Co. Ltd. of Myōkō, Niigata in 1966, who later also trademarked the name in China, South Korea, and the United States.[5] They are the exclusive makers of kanzuri.[5]

Uses

Traditionally, people from the Jōetsu region, which is known in Japan for its heavy snowfall, used kanzuri as a condiment that was thought to help warm up body temperature.[1]

Today, kanzuri is used in a wide variety of dishes, including ramen, miso soup, yakiniku, nabemono, nattō, and pasta.[1][2] It can also be dissolved into wasabi or tare, as well as be eaten as a complement to tsukemono.[6] It is also used as a seasoning in snacks including kaki no tane,[8] senbei,[9] Kappa Ebisen,[10] instant yakisoba, ramen,[11] and chorizo.[12]

According to Tōjō Kuniaki, the current president of Kanzuri, Co. Ltd., restaurateurs and chefs in Japan often use kanzuri as a "great supporting actor" and "secret ingredient" in their dishes. They have reported to him that kanzuri helps to mitigate the oiliness of a dish or to brighten its flavor.[6]

History
Folk tradition in the Jōetsu region ascribes Uesugi Kenshin (pictured) with the local introduction of the tōgarashi used for kanzuri.

Local legend in Jōetsu ascribes the origin of kanzuri to Uesugi Kenshin, who is said to have introduced tōgarashi to the region from Kyoto. Kanzuri was originally made by grinding tōgarashi together with miso paste.[1]

The modern manufacturing of kanzuri began after the Pacific War. At the time, traditional food culture was rapidly disappearing in Japan, which during its postwar economic surge became Westernized. Tōjō Kuniji, the founder of what later became the official maker of kanzuri, deplored the situation, and told his son that he had to protect the heritage of kanzuri.[6] He began to research methods of making kanzuri and sought to replicate homemade kanzuri for the domestic market. After graduating high school, his son Kuniaki joined him in his efforts.[6]

A breakthrough came when Kuniaki was sent to the United States as part of an agricultural study-abroad program for his university. As he and his fellow students dined on steak on one occasion, he procured a jar of kanzuri that he had brought with him from home. He invited others to try it and their positive reaction strengthened his resolve to popularize kanzuri. When he returned, he co-founded Kanzuri, Co. Ltd. in Myōkō with his father and trademarked the name "kanzuri".[6]

Local elderly women were recruited to help with the manufacturing of kanzuri and produce the right flavor.[3] At first, he sold his kanzuri door-to-door to neighbors.[6] Although his efforts were derided at the time, kanzuri became popular and the company a success. It currently makes approximately 20 tons of kanzuri per year.[3][6]

Both kanzuri and the process of yukisarashi have become popular tourist attractions in Myōkō.[3][6]

References
  1. "かんずり". うちの郷土料理 (in Japanese). Archived from the original on December 9, 2022. Retrieved December 9, 2022.
  2. "Special Condiment from Niigata: Kanzuri". Toiro Kitchen & Supply. Archived from the original on December 9, 2022. Retrieved December 9, 2022.
  3. "Visit the ingredients (4) Kanzuri, fermented red chili, spread on the snow". Village to Table Stories. February 2016. Archived from the original on December 9, 2022. Retrieved December 9, 2022.
  4. "新潟の調味料「かんずり」を楽しもう。一緒に味わいたい日本酒も紹介". Kubotaya (in Japanese). November 24, 2020. Archived from the original on December 9, 2022. Retrieved December 9, 2022.
  5. Nakagawa, Y. (May 28, 2020). "新潟生まれの「かんずり」とは？一家にひとつの万能調味料！". macaroni (in Japanese). Archived from the original on December 9, 2022. Retrieved December 9, 2022.
  6. Shimada, Hiromi (January 20, 2016). "世界でも珍しい唐辛子の発酵食品「かんずり」。料理を選ばず使える万能調味料の里へ！". ぐるたび (in Japanese). Archived from the original on December 9, 2022. Retrieved December 9, 2022.
  7. "雪国の風物詩 「かんずり」トウガラシの雪さらし（新潟県妙高市）". Yukiguni Journey (in Japanese). January 21, 2021. Archived from the original on December 9, 2022. Retrieved December 9, 2022.
  8. "かんずりコラボ商品「亀田の柿の種 新潟名産かんずり味」全国発売スタート！". Joetsu Myoko Town Joho (in Japanese). July 16, 2022. Archived from the original on December 9, 2022. Retrieved December 9, 2022.
  9. "｢かんずり」使った米菓　三幸製菓と亀田製菓から全国発売". 上越タウンジャーナル (in Japanese). December 20, 2021. Archived from the original on December 10, 2022. Retrieved December 9, 2022.
  10. "新潟の味『かっぱえびせん かんずり味』7月13日（月）発売　柚子の香りが引き立てる辛味と旨みが「やめられない、とまらない♪」". PRTimes (in Japanese). July 13, 2020. Archived from the original on December 10, 2022. Retrieved December 9, 2022.
  11. "「明星 チャルメラ 新潟かんずり ゆず香る旨辛まぜそば」「明星 チャルメラどんぶり 新潟かんずり 旨辛みそラーメン」(11月4日発売)". 明星食品 (in Japanese). September 17, 2019. Archived from the original on December 10, 2022. Retrieved December 9, 2022.
  12. "【うちごはん】新潟の「かんずり」が隠し味！あらびきジューシーで豊かな辛味が美味しい米久「チョリソー」". ぴんちょすの沼津ライフ (in Japanese). June 23, 2021. Archived from the original on December 10, 2022. Retrieved December 9, 2022.
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