Perpignan (Perpinyà in Catalan) is the capital of the department of Pyrénées-Orientales, the Northern Catalonia part of France, and about 15 km from the sea. Perpignan is home to about 120,000 people, and has two rivers flowing through it; with the Têt to the north, and the Basse through the centre. Once the continental capital of the Kingdom of Majorca, Perpignan has been an economical and educational centre for centuries, and this is evident in its architecture.
Understand
Perpignan sits on the crossroads of the French and Spanish, Catalan and Languedocian cultural spheres. It was the "mainland" capital of the Kingdom of Mallorca for a while and gained further fame as a connection point between France and Spain when the first high-speed standard gauge rail line between the two countries opened from Figueres in 2010 with the missing section onwards via Girona to Barcelona and thence all of Spain opening in 2013. Perpignan gained some questionable fame in the 2020 municipal elections when a member of the far-right RN and former partner of its leader Marine Le Pen, won the mayoral election, making Perpignan the biggest city with a far-right mayor in France.
Perpignan is in the heart of the Roussillon plain, about 10-15 km from the beaches of Côte d'Améthyste (Amethyst coast) on the Mediterranean. It sits between the Corbières region and the Albères Massif, foothills of the Pyrenees and the emblematic mountain Pic du Canigou is visible to the southwest.
The historical centre has narrow streets with brick houses and one of the highlights here is the quartier Saint-Jacques with the Medieval Jewish quartier. The citadel with the royal palace, the Castillet and ramparts are monuments to the time when the city was the capital of the Kingdom of Mallorca. There's more to the old town than history, it also has many bars and a vibrant nightlife.
The outskirts of the city show a sharp contrast to the old town. In the latter half of the 20th century Perpignan grew rapidly, one of the reasons was that people moving from independent Algeria settled here. During this time many suburbs emerged, being built quickly and in a disorderly manner.
This article also covers Argelès-sur-Mer, one of the major seaside resorts in the south of France (300 days of sunshine per year). That old and lively Catalan village is built around its church and museum.
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Climate
The climate is Mediterranean with hot summers and mild winters, which is evident in the vegetation. Trees include olive trees, palms, green oaks, cork oaks and pines, together with fruit trees (peach, apricot, cherry, almond and orange). In the arid higher locations grows garrigue, thymes and wild lavender.
Rain is relatively rare, though when it falls it's sometimes torrential. Such rains usually occur during late summer or early autumn. Perpignan gets a lot of sun, on average 2506 hours a year - much thanks to the Pyrenees that block rainy weather coming in from the Atlantic.
Wind patterns have names; usually it blows from the northwest, and the wind is called tramontane. The wind from Spain (southwest) is known as alber, from southeast marinada and south migjorn are rarer but these too help clear the sky from clouds.
History
The oldest traces of human habitation are from the 7th century BCE, discovered through archaeological diggings around Château-Roussillon. Made up of the remains of a home and a grave, it is known as the Ruscino site. In pre-Christian times Perpignan was an important town, first the capital of the Sordones (an Iberic people) and during Roman times a prosperous city with a forum, basilicas, thermal baths and patricians residences. The Roman name for the town was Ruscino, which has evolved into Roussillon. However, the Romans decided to move the regional administration to nearby Elne, meaning the decline of Ruscino. In Elne an episcopal seat was established.
In the early 8th century the Muslims marching northwards from Spain returned the regional capital status to Ruscino. The first reference of the city's present name was in a charter from 927, where a place named Villa Perpiniani had been established outside Ruscino. This modest village was chosen as the capital by the counts of Roussillon who had a castle built here in the 11th century. In 1172 it became part of the crown of Aragon, and the city received privileges including a local government with a great degree of autonomy.
The 13th and 14th centuries were known as the golden age of Perpignan. Christians reconquered the Balearic Islands, and together with areas in present-day northeastern Spain and south coastal France they were made into a separate kingdom, the Kingdom of Majorca, with Perpignan as its capital. Many of the grand buildings such as the cathedral, royal palace, ramparts and a sea court are from this time. In 1344 the kingdom was reincorporated into the Crown of Aragon.
Roussillon including Perpignan was annexed by France in 1463, and this was followed by 30 years of local revolt against the French. In 1493 Aragon gained control again and the city became known as Fidelissima Vila de Perpinyà - the faithful city of Perpignan. Aragon and later Spain built fortifications around the Perpignan, but in 1642 the French Army returned and in 1659 the region became part of France as part of the Treaty of the Pyrenees. The fortifications were improved again, this time by the famous architect Vauban, and also the city was modernized.
Perpignan saw warfare again during the Napoleonic Wars. As a city near the border of two European powers, many buildings were converted into military use and many others were destroyed to make the city less cramped. In theh 19th century, Perpignan was industrialized and became an economic center. In the 20th century, the town was under German occupation during WWII and received a large influx of pieds noirs, French North Africans, when Morocco, Tunisia and especially Algeria became independent in the 1960s. The resulting population growth meant that suburbs were created around Perpignan. Perpignan today remains an important economic center in southern France, as well as a popular transport hub for tourists.
Get in
By car
Perpignan is at the crossroads between the regions of Languedoc-Roussillon and Spanish Catalonia. Autoroute A9 (named La Catalane) follows the coast, bypassing the city. From north it connects from Narbonne, Montpellier and Nîmes, and 40 km north of Perpignan is the junction with A61, connecting from Toulouse and Bordeaux. From the south the road comes in from Spain where it continues to Barcelona, Tarragona and Valencia. Take exit 41 or 42 to get to Perpignan.
Also the departmental route 900 (D900) goes along the coast more or less next to the A9; in Perpignan it goes right through downtown. It doesn't have tolls, but the speed limits are lower and it may be congested.
D117 follows the northern edge of the Pyrenees going west to the villages of Foix and Saint-Girons, and eventually to autoroute A64 (named la Pyrénéenne which goes to Tarbes, Pau and Bayonne. N116 goes southwest to Prades and Font-Romeu and provides access from Andorra, the Spanish towns of Puigcerdà and La Seu d'Urgell, and the national reserves of Py and Nohèdes.
D617 goes east, to the coastal resorts on the Côte d'Améthyste.
By plane
- 🌍 Perpignan–Rivesaltes Airport (PGF IATA) (about 6 km north of the city). Perpignan's airport is a small one, with flights from about a dozen destinations in France, the British Isles and Northwestern Africa. For getting into the city the easiest is bus 7 . A one way ticket was €1.20 in September 2015. The stop closest to the train station is Catalogne.
By train
- 🌍 Gare de Perpignan, 1 place Salvador Dali. The station held major importance for Salvador Dalí, who proclaimed it "the center of the universe" and made a painting of it. Likewise, the station has decorative paintings in Dalí's style. As for travel, it sits along the first and thus far (2021) only standard gauge connection between Spain and France, served by French TGV and Spanish AVE bookable through RENFE and SNCF at rather affordable rates if you book early. TGV trains take 1 hour 20 minutes from Barcelona and 5 hours from Paris. There are also servies on the TER (transport express régional) trains from Toulouse, Narbonne, Montpellier and Marseille. There are several shops in the station, making up a small shopping mall.
By bus
- Eurolines: 04 68 34 11 46 - 10, avenue du Général de Gaulle (close to the railway station)
- German bus behemoth Flixbus serves Perpignan with routes all over Europe, the stop is at boulevard Saint-Assiscle, also near the railway station.
- Blablabus connects Perpignan with Barcelona and Girona, cities in southern France like Carcassone, Montpellier, Toulouse and Nimes, as well as major French cities like Lyon and Paris.
- The local bus network Transports 66 connects nearby towns such as Argelès-sur-Mer, Thuir, Ille-sur-Têt or Le Boulou. There are also local buses to certain places in Aude department like Quillan (from where you can take local buses to other towns in that department).
Get around
The main way to get around in Perpignan (due to its relatively small size) is by foot, but there are buses that go right through the city centre, and then further out, even going as far as Cabestany and Canet.
By car
Driving is also a good way to get about, with lots of underground parking in the city centre, but beware, during the summer and 'tourist season' there will be a lot of traffic, and few parking places left. During morning and afternoon rush hours there's a risk for congestion too.
By foot
The old town is largely pedestrianized, so you can stroll around and admire the grand buildings without need to watch out for cars.
By public transport
Sankeo operates the city's public transit network. Their website (in French) has a route planner, timetables and route maps. The network not just covers Perpignan proper but surrounding towns and villages as well.
By taxi
Several taxi companies operate in the city and it's easy to find one at the airport or the railway station.
- Taxi Perpignan, 17 rue de Vauban, ☏ +33 4 48 07 04 72, toll-free: +33 4 48 07 04 72. 24/7. Good quality taxi serving Perpignan with surroundings.
- Perpignan Taxi, 52 rue du Maréchal Foch, ☏ +33 4 68 35 15 15. 24/7. One of the major taxi companies in the city, in business since 1976.
- Bonjean Taxi, 8 rue Sarguadia, Pollestres, ☏ +33 6 09 35 97 70. 24/7. Luxurious taxi company with a Mercedes-Benz fleet.
- Taxi Direct Perpignan, 1 rue Maurice Archambaud, ☏ +33 4 68 83 83 83. 24/7. Operating all around Greater Perpignan.
- Monsieur Taxi, 2 rue can partere, ☏ +33 6 23 15 35 04, taxiperpignan66100@gmail.com. Taxi perpignan disponible 24/24 et 7/7.
See
Quartier Saint-Jean
Established south of the Basse River, Saint-Jean is the historic part of Perpignan. In the 11th century the counts of Roussillon established a fortress around the small church of Saint-Jean le Vieux. It's a lively part of the city largely composed of brick buildings with or without coating and small alleys and squares between them. Many streets are pedestrianized and lined by shops and restaurants.
Place de la Loge is the most famous square, and was known in the Middle Ages as Plaça dels Richs Homens (the square of the rich people in Catalan). It's surrounded by buildings of great importance during the time; Loge de Mer (court and commercial exchange), Palais de la Députation, and the city hall. In the middle stands "La Vénus au collier", a statue by painter and sculptor Aristide Maillol (1861-1944). Nearby Place de Verdun sits right next to the Castillet and around the corner is the Basse, surrounded by greenery.
In addition to walking around on your own, in the warmer half of the year there are guided walking tours departing from the tourist office, a tourist train going around the historical centre, and a boat with electric motor plying the Basse.
- 🌍 Perpignan Cathedral (Basilique-Cathédrale de Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Perpignan). Also known by its Catalan name Seu Sant-Joan-Baptista, work on this large brick cathedral began in 1324 during the rule of king Sancho I of Majorca. The fall of the kingdom and the Black Death pandemic stopped and slowed down works, and the building was finished only in 1509. The diocese of Elne was moved here in 1602, giving it cathedral status. The cathedral has been modified many times over the centuries and the oldest part is the choir with its seven-sided apse. Attractions on the inside include the white marble main altarpiece with scenes from the lives of Jesus and St. John the Baptist, and minor altarpieces of Notre-Dame-de-la-Magrana and Saint-Pierre. There's also a small chapel decorated sacred art of the early 14th century, and a wooden crucifix brought here from the Rhine Valley. The western façade of the cathedral has a bell tower with a bell made in 1418.
- 🌍 Campo Santo. The "field of saints" is a cemetery complex for built between 1300 and 1330 next to the cathedral, and used until the French Revolution. It is a brick cloister, with wealthy people being buried in the surrounding arcades and the less well off in the middle (now a grass field, formerly an ossuary). The oldest visible grave dates from 1317.
- 🌍 Église Saint-Jean le Vieux (chapelle Notre Dame dels Correchs). "St. John the old" is also known by its Catalan name Sant Joan el Vell and was built in the early 10th century. As the small town grew quickly, the church had to be enlarged in the next century. In 1075 the new version of the church was consecrated by the bishop of Elne. In the 14th century the adjacent cathedral (mentioned above) replaced Saint-Jean as the city's main church. Indeed the old church became abandoned, partially demolished and was even used as a factory for some time. Since the 1970s restoration works and archaeological excavations are underway. The interior cannot be visited, but the church can be admired from the outside.
- 🌍 Castillet, Place de Verdun, ☏ +33 4 68 35 42 05. Tu-Su 10:30-18:00. Also known by its Catalan name Castellet and as Porte Notre-Dame, this fortified 14th century city gate is the symbol od the city. It was built on orders by John I of Aragon, as part of a larger project to improve the city's fortifications. There are two buildings, the 31 meters high dungeon which is the Grand Castillet, and next to it the Petit Castillet which the French built in 1478. The complex later functioned as a prison, and it was spared from being torn down in the 19th century modernization frenzy. Today the building houses a museum of folk art and traditions and there are nice views of the city from the terrace at the top. €4.
- 🌍 Hôtel de Ville. The city hall represents Roussillonian civil architecture and was built on orders by king Sancho I of Majorca in the 14th century. The building has been modified many times over, but it remains the seat of the city government to this day. It has arches with ornaments and forged iron gates built in 1710, as well as a patio with a statue of a "Mediterranean woman" by Maillol. There are many beautifully decorated rooms on the inside, such as the salle consulaire used for weddings and salle Saint-Jean where the city council gathers.
- 🌍 Palais de la Députation. Palau de la Diputacio in Catalan is a 15th century building next to the city hall. The local seat of the Catalan government functioned here in Aragonese and Majorcan times, and when Perpignan became French it retained a similar function as the Sovereign Council of Roussillon. After the French Revolution it functioned as a courthouse until 1866, and after that some functions of the city government was moved here.
- 🌍 Loge de Mer. Also known as Llotja de Mar in Catalan is a monument to the economical power of medieval Catalan and Aragon cities. Such historical loges, doubling as stock exchanges and courthouses for business disputes, can also be found in Barcelona, Palma de Mallorca and Valencia. King John I gave an order to establish the institution in 1388, building began in 1397 and it was further enlarged in 1540 under the rule of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V; there's a plaque commemorating this enlargement. Nowadays the ground floor houses a bar, though other than that the interior isn't open to visitors. Outside the building there's a statue by Maillol, La Vénus au Collier ("Venus with a necklace")
- 🌍 Musée Rigaud (Rigaud Museum), 16 rue de l'Ange, ☏ +33 4 68 35 43 40, musee-rigaud@mairie-perpignan.com. One of the foremost cultural institutions of the city, the museum of fine arts situated in the former Hôtel de Lauzerme. The museum was founded in 1820 and renamed in 1959 after Hyacinthe Rigaud, royal portraitist at the courts of Louis XIV and Louis XV, who was born in Perpignan. The museum displays works by French and Spanish painters from the 15th to the 20th centuries, naturally including works by Rigaud.
- 🌍 Casa Xanxo, 8 rue de la Main de Fer, ☏ +33 4 68 62 37 98. In the 16th century, a wealthy merchant named Bernat Xanxo had this mansion built in Catalan Gotic style. Later on, the Llupia family inhabited the building, and nowadays it's owned by the city and can be visited for free. Built of pink bricks like many historical buildings here, it features many vaulted rooms and a remarkable ceremonial living room. An architecturally interesting detail is a frieze with symbols of the capital sins and the last judgement, and demons and flames of hell waiting for victims. free.
- 🌍 Dominican convent (Couvent des Dominicains), 6 rue François Rabelais, ☏ +33 4 68 68 26 26. The convent was created in 1245 on the initiative of Aragonese king James I, on the site of a former leper colony. In the 13th century it was the home to 60 monks at least, remaining an active religious center until the Revolution. It was made up of a large chapel, a chapter house, a cloister, a refectory and dormitories. The chapel houses an art exhibition space and the rest of the complex is used by the military.
Quartier de La Réal
This was the seat of royal power during the Kingdom of Majorca, and the district is also known by the name Castell Real. It's made up of the Royal Palace and the impressive citadel surrounding it and is a calm part of the city compared to the commercial parts. Some cultural institutions can be found here as well.
- 🌍 Église Notre-Dame de La Réal, Rue Petite La Réal, ☏ +33 4 68 34 71 34. The royal parish church was built on the site of a former convent, beginning in 1301. It was consecrated in 1323 and got the title "collegiate" in 1338. During the Revolution it was used as a munitions factory, but in 1804 it became a church again. It retains it Gothic structure, although the façade was renovated in the 19th century. Highlights in the interior include the 14th century baptismal font and a 15th century painting of a tomb. free.
- 🌍 Palais des Rois de Majorque, Rue des Archers, ☏ +33 4 68 34 48 29. Also known by its Catalan name Palau dels Reis de Mallorca, this palace-fortress sits on the dominant hill of the city, Puig del Rei. Majorcan king James II had it built as a centerpiece of the new grand capital of his kingdom. The palace was built between 1276 and 1309 under the direction of master builders Ramon Pau de Perpinyà and Pons Descoyl, and was modified during the reign of Aragon. The ramparts were again reinforced for Louis XI and Charles V, and in the 17th century by Louis XIV's military engineer Vauban. The palace has a rectangular form organized around three courtyards with lush gardens and surrounded by ramparts and eight fortified towers. You will enter the complex through the main entrance, the tour de l'hommage, a gate made of marble and sandstone. The main building features elegant arcades and two side stairs, and is composed of the royal apartments and two chapels; Sainte-Marie-Madeleine for the queen and Sainte-Croix for the king. There's also the throne room which is monumental. An interesting detail is a frieze with the word "Allah" in Arabic. It's a symbol for the relations between Christian Catalonia and the Muslim Moors.
- 🌍 Hôtel Pams, 18, rue Émile-Zola, ☏ +33 4 68 62 38 25. A mansion classified as a historical monument. The mansion was built by 19th century industrialist Pierre Bardou-Job, but it was his son-in-law Jules Pams who had it redesigned to the grand looks it has today. The remodeling was led by architect Léopold Carlier and some parts of the building including the stairs was decorated by painter Paul Gervais. Since 1946, when it was sold to the city it has functioned as an archaeological repository, a law school and a library. Nowadays it's an office and conference building, and the interiors are occasionally open to the public. free.
- 🌍 Natural history museum (Muséum d'histoire naturelle), 12 Rue Font Neuve. Extensive collections of the flora and fauna of the Pyrenees and mineralogy. There are also sections with archaeological objects from ancient Egypt, and an ethnological collection from Oceania.
Quartier Saint-Jacques
A popular district with a Mediterranean and cosmopolitan atmosphere with linens hanging from the windows, smells of spices with many communities living here, among others Romani and Maghrebi. In the Middle Ages this was the Jewish quarters of Perpignan, named Call. Here you can find the Saint-Jacques church and the Miranda gardens, where the Sanch processions each Easter.
- 🌍 Saint-Jacques church (Église Saint-Jacques). Founded in the 13th century during the reign of James I, on a hill outside the city walls. It's built in Catalan Gothic style and has many altarpieces. The portal made of marble from Céret was originally in Notre-Dame de La Réal, but was disassembled and reassembled here in the 17th century. During the same time a chapel was built as an extension of the church. The Good Friday procession la Sanch that has been arranged since the 15th century, nowadays sets of from this chapel.
The aviation museum Mas Palégry at the southern outskirts of the city has been permanently closed.
Do
Cultural venues
- 🌍 La Casa Musicale (L'Arsenal), 1 rue jean Vielledent. Cultural center focusing on music of many genres with performances and courses.
Events
- Sanch procession : An event like Easter processions on the Iberian peninsula, taking place each Good Friday since 1461. Hooded penitents (wearing caperutxas) march the streets of the old town, starting from the Saint-Jacques church, some of them walking barefoot. They carry sets of life-size statues showing scenes of the passion of Christ.
- The Sant Joan festival is not to be missed. Not too unlike the Midsummer celebrations in the Nordic and Baltic countries, St. John's eve (23 June) is celebrated in Catalonia with surroundings with bonfires and fireworks but also parades.
- Visa pour l'image : A photo exhibition festival taking place each September for 15 days. The largest exhibition is at the Couvent des Minimes, and there are many other places where photos are displayed. The topics include the environment and social issues. During the festival also many places are open to the public that normally aren't.
Practicing sports
There are many sports associations where inhabitants and also visitors can practice different sports ranging from different martial arts to team sports (football, basketball etc.).
Pools
- 🌍 Espace aquatique Moulin à Vent, 80 avenue Paul Alduy, ☏ +33 4 68 68 46 68. Part of a sports park complex, with a heated Olympic size swimming pool (50 m in length), many play pools and a pool for small children. There are also a jacuzzi, a sauna and a hammam.
- 🌍 Espace aquatique Arlette Franco, 2 rue du Méridien, ☏ +33 4 68 62 70 01. It has a heated semi-Olympic swimming pool (25 m in length), a playing pool with jacuzzi and massaging water jets as well as a paddling pool.
Gyms
- 🌍 Keep Cool, 13 quai François Batllo, ☏ +33 4 68 53 34 23. daily 6-23. Downtown gym part of a chain, open every day. They have equipment for aerobic exercise, muscle building and relaxation. Exercise courses are arranged on demand.
Spectator sports
Perpignan is one of France's rugby hotbeds, with professional teams in both rugby codes.
- USA Perpignan (Union Sportive Arlequins Perpignanais). Plays rugby union (15 a side) in France's Top 14 competition, where it is frequently one of the strongest teams. Home ground is Stade Aimé Giral.
- Dragons Catalans. Plays rugby league (13 a side) in Super League, where it is joined by 12 teams from England and one from Wales. Home ground is Stade Gilbert Brutus.
- Saint-Estève XIII Catalan are a semi-pro rugby league team in Elite 1, the top French domestic tier for 13-a-side rugby. Their home ground is Stade Municipal (capacity 6000) 3 km northwest of town centre. The playing season is September-April.
Stadiums
- 🌍 Parc des Sports, Avenue Paul Alduy, ☏ +33 4 68 62 39 00. A large sports complex outside the city. It features two natural grass courts, two synthetic grass courts, two gymnasiums, a baseball stadium, a health course, a fitness area, a skate park and a climbing wall.
- 🌍 Stade Jean-Laffon, Avenue Paul Dejean, ☏ +33 4 68 54 64 02. Home to the football team OC Perpignan and one of the city's main sport venues.
- 🌍 Stade Aimé-Giral, Allées Aimé Giral, ☏ +33 4 68 38 80 22. Seating almost 15000, this is the home stadium of rugby team USA Perpignan.
- 🌍 Stade Gilbert-Brutus, Avenue de l'aérodrome, ☏ +33 4 68 61 19 90. The home stadium of the rugby team Dragons catalans, nicknamed l'antre des dragons ("dragon's den") and seating almost 10000 viewers.
Buy
The centre of Perpignan is filled with lots of small boutiques, but there are also large stores such as the department store "Galeries Lafayette", and the small shopping centre "fnac".
Markets
- 🌍 Marché de la place Cassanyes, Place Cassanyes (Quartier Saint-Jacques). 7:30-13:30. Daily market with about a hundred sellers.
- 🌍 Marché de la place de la République, Place de la République (Quartier Saint-Jean). Tu-Su 7:30-13:30. Mainly a food market, with farmers' and organic products for sale every weekend.
- 🌍 Marché des Poilus, Place de la République (Quartier Saint-Jean). daily except Sunday. Mainly dried products from near and far: dried fruits, vegetables, fish and spices.
Department stores
- 🌍 Galeries Lafayette, 1 place de la Résistance, ☏ +33 4 68 35 26 91. Three-floor department store with clothing, cosmetics, jewellery and other products. M-Sa 9:30-19:45.
Supermarkets and hypermarkets
- 🌍 Auchan - Centre commercial Porte d'Espagne, Avenue d'Espagne (south of the city), ☏ +33 4 68 68 10 10. 8:30-22. A large shopping mall made up of an Auchan hypermarket with a gallery of smaller boutiques, some places to eat and a gas station.
- 🌍 Centre commercial Carrefour Perpignan-Château-Roussillon, 1 chemin de la Roseraie (east of the city), ☏ +33 4 68 62 69 79. 8:30-21:30. Another of Perpignan's large hypermarkets.
- 🌍 Centre commercial E.Leclerc - Espace Polygone, 2130 avenue du Languedoc (north of the city), ☏ +33 4 68 61 58 66. Hypermarket in a "shopping zone" with many other shops nearby.
- 🌍 Aldi, 21 rue Alfred Eisenstaedt (east of the city). Grocery discount store, part of the German chain operating in many countries.
- 🌍 Monoprix, 7 rue de la Barre (downtown), ☏ +33 4 68 34 53 73. 8:30-20. On of the main supermarkets downtown, with groceries, wellness and DIY products.
- 🌍 Lidl - Saint-Assiscle, Boulevard Saint-Assiscle. Grocery discount store, part of the German chain operating in many countries.
- 🌍 Biocoop Cosmos, 12 avenue de Prades, ☏ +33 4 68 56 62 97. Organic and "eco-responsible" products.
- 🌍 Centre del Mon, 35 boulevard Saint-Assiscle, ☏ +33 4 11 64 71 00. Shopping mall next to the railway station consisting of a G20 supermarket, smaller boutiques and places to eat.
Eat
The Roussillon cuisine is a variant of the Catalan cuisine, with ingredients from mar i muntanya - the sea and the mountains. Common ingredients include fish and seafood (the "fruits of the sea"), charcuteries, the "fruits of the land" like tomatoes, peppers, peaches, apricots, cherries and of course aioli (known as all i oli here).
Classics of the local cuisine include suquet (fish stew with saffron and tomatoes), esesxaida (red salad with peppers), llagosta i pollastre (dish based on lobster and chicken), bullinada (fish and seafood pot), llagostada (lobster simmered in olive oil with sofregit - sauce), or cargollada (barbecued snails).
Iconic products include botifarras (sausage) and fuet (dry sausages) but also anxoves (anchovies), a specialty of the city of Collioure, mongetes (white beans) and olives. For dessert there are bunyetes (beignets), coques or cocas (fruit pastries sometimes with ), crema catalana, le bras de gitan (Genoese cake filled with pastry cream), rousquille (cookies with anise) and mel i mato (goat or sheep's cheese with honey).
On the wine side, the region is famous for sweet wines including Banyuls, Rivesaltes, Muscat de Rivesaltes and Maury, and high quality table wines like Côte du Roussillon and Collioure.
Budget
International fast food chains are also present in Perpignan.
- 🌍 Quick Perpignan-Sud, 1731 avenue d'Espagne (Porte d'Espagne), ☏ +33 4 68 54 04 55. Hamburgers and salads, the Perpignan restaurant of a French chain. €7.
- 🌍 Le Petit Comité, 24 Bd Georges Clemenceau. Italian, French and international dishes on the menu. €9-17.
- 🌍 Pizzeria Ponte Vecchio, Rue Rouget de l'Isle. Pizza and pasta, outdoor seating.
- 🌍 L'Encas perpignan, 20 Rue de la Cloche d'Or.
- 🌍 Whateuteu!, 4 Rue Amiral Barrera. Burgers and steaks, also has a cocktail bar.
- 🌍 La Carmagnole, 12 Rue de la Révolution Française. Local cuisine, much seafood on the menu. €10-15.
- 🌍 Café de la Source, 1 Rue Maréchal Foch. Serves a "dish of the day", usually some meat dish.
- 🌍 Ô liban, 6 Rue Mailly. Lebanese restaurant.
Mid-range
- 🌍 Le 17, 1 Rue Cité Bartissol. French cuisine generally, menu changes daily and is posted on a blackboard.
- 🌍 Restaurant Les Saisons, 6 Rue Camille Desmoulins. French cuisine; meat, fish and vegetarian options. €15-25.
- 🌍 Les Aristo, 3 Rue de l'Incendie. International cuisine from wok to risotto. Brunch on Sundays. €18-25.
- 🌍 Buffalo Grill, 343 Chemin du Mas Palegry (Porte d'Espagne, also two other restaurants in town), ☏ +33 4 68 85 40 12, perpignan@buffalo-grill.fr. Part of a French chain, this barbecue restaurant specializes in American-style barbecue meat dishes. €15-30.
- 🌍 Hippopotamus, 4 rue Jean Sabrazes (Porte d'Espagne), ☏ +33 4 68 89 76 26. Another national chain restaurant, serving BBQ meat, salads and burgers. €15-30.
- 🌍 Casa Portuguesa, 36 avenue du Palais des Expositions, ☏ +33 4 68 52 79 31. Portuguese restaurant, part of it is a tapas bar. It has a terrace and garden, so you can eat outdoors if you like. €15-30.
- 🌍 La Boucherie, Route d'Elne (Rocade sud), ☏ +33 4 68 63 20 71. True to its name, ("butchery"), the restaurant specializes in meat dishes. €15-30.
- 🌍 Le Divil, 9 rue Fabriques d'en Nabot, ☏ +33 4 68 34 57 73, contact@restaurant-le-divil-66.com. Menu centered around local meat products, from grilled steaks to tartar. €20-30.
- L'Aficion, 5 rue de la Poissonnerie.
Splurge
- 🌍 Les Antiquaires, Place Desprès, ☏ +33 4 68 34 06 58. Founded in 1973, this restaurant located in the heart of a historic neighborhood offers traditional French fare focusing on simplicity and authenticity. €20-40.
- 🌍 La Galinette, 23 Rue Jean Payra. French cuisine, menu changes according to the mood of the chef. 6 dishes menu €70, 8 dishes menu €76.
- 🌍 Côte Catalane, Zac du Mas Balande (Rocade Sud), ☏ +33 4 68 66 89 00, cotecatalane@hotmail.fr. Seafood restaurant stressing freshness, simplicity of dishes and pleasant surroundings. Menu changes regularly depending on the catch of the day and the mood of the chef. €20-40.
- 🌍 Le Yucca, 21 allée des Chênes, ☏ +33 4 68 85 56 54, delprat@le-yucca.com. The chef Alain Delprat prepares his creations for guests, drawing inspirations from local and Mediterranean cuisines. seasonal menu €46.
- 🌍 Casa Sansa, 2 rue Fabrique d'en Nadal, ☏ +33 4 68 50 48 01. Founded by chef Jean-Marie Pujade, it's a local institution serving new takes on Catalan classic dishes. €20-40.
Drink
Bars
- 🌍 O'Shannon, 3 rue de l'Incendie (Quartier Saint-Jean), ☏ +33 4 68 35 12 48. An Irish pub with beers from all over the world. Two large rooms but still very busy after work hours and in the weekend.
- 🌍 Jet Set, 4 rue Labédoyère, ☏ +33 6 64 62 62 77. A wine bar in a modern setting, serving local wines with Catalan tapas.
- 🌍 Le Corsaire, 1 impasse de la Division, ☏ +33 4 68 50 23 39. An ambient bar specializing in rum-based cocktails. Theme nights, and overall popular with students.
- 🌍 Le Zinc, 8 rue des Grandes Fabriques, ☏ +33 4 68 35 08 80. Cozy and intimate wine and cocktail bar which nevertheless can get busy after work. They serve tapas also.
- 🌍 Le Tinc Set, 3 rue du Marché aux Bestiaux, ☏ +33 4 11 68 39 47. Tinc set means "I'm thirsty" in Catalan. It's a wine bar with tasting events, and they also have regional charcuteries and tapas.
Tea salons
- 🌍 La Cafetière, 17 rue de l'Ange, ☏ +33 4 68 51 82 65. A tiny café with a couple of tables to sit down. A range of coffees, teas and flavored hot chocolates.
Discotheques
Discos are at the outskirts of the city, and more are to be found at the beach resorts of Canet-en-Roussillon, Saint-Cyprien, Argelès-sur-Mer, Collioure. Some major nightspots include:
- 🌍 Madison Club, 955 avenue Julien Panchot, ☏ +33 4 68 22 16 34. Maybe the main meeting place for local clubbers with many themed nights. Many kinds of music from rock to salsa to electronic music.
- 🌍 Uba Club, 5 boulevard Félix Mercader, ☏ +33 4 68 34 06 70. The main gay nightspot with a variety of music and a trendy atmosphere.
Sleep
Budget
- 🌍 Première Classe Perpignan, 313 chemin du Mas Palegry, ☏ +33 4 68 54 22 75, fax: +33 4 68 54 24 24, perpignan@premiereclasse.fr. Check-in: 13:30-0:00, check-out: 11:00-11:30. At the outskirts of the city with 70 functional rooms at moderate prices. €34-47.
- 🌍 Tropic Hôtel, Avenue Gustave Eiffel (Rivesaltes, some 10 km north of Perpignan), ☏ +33 4 68 64 04 37, tropichotel@wanadoo.fr. Check-in: 0:00-0:00, check-out: 11:00-0:00. In the town of Rivesaltes, this place has 46 rooms with private bathrooms and toilets. There's a bar, a restaurant and a pool. €35-51.
- 🌍 Hôtel Victoria, 57 Avenue Maréchal Joffre, ☏ +33 4 68 61 17 17, info@hotel-victoria-perpignan.com. Check-in: 16:00-20:00, check-out: before 11:00. In Moyen-Vernet district, with 30 rooms with private bathrooms and flatscreen tv:s. Rooms have windows either to the street or to the courtyard, and some of them have balconies. €44-62.
- 🌍 Hôtel Aragon, 17 avenue Gilbert Brutus, ☏ +33 4 68 54 04 46, contact@hotel-aragon-perpignan.com. Check-in: 14:00-0:00, check-out: 0:00-11:00. Small hotel near the royal palace. There are ensuite private bathrooms, tv and air conditioning. €45-64.
- 🌍 P'tit Dej Hôtel Perpignan, Rond-point des Combattants en Afrique du Nord, ☏ +33 4 68 54 65 66. Check-in: 13:30-0:00, check-out: before 11:00. Part of a national chain, 53 rooms with private showers. €35-45.
- 🌍 Les Cottages de Perpignan Camping maeva Escapades, 3252 avenue de la Salanque, ☏ +334480723512. Two-star camping with 94 places of which 26 for mobile homes and two chalets. It has a pool, a snack-bar, a petanque ground, and a playground for children.
- 🌍 Auberge de jeunesse de Perpignan, 3 allée Marc Pierre, ☏ +33 4 68 34 63 32. The city's youth hostel with 49 beds, a kitchen, a library and an area to relax. French, Spanish and English spoken.
Mid-range
- 🌍 Arcantis Hotel Mondial, 40 boulevard Clémenceau, ☏ +33 4 68 34 23 45, fax: +33 4 68 34 55 07. Check-in: 14:00-0:00, check-out: 0:00-12:00. 40 rooms, with private bathroom and plasma tv, certains with balcony. The hotel has a conference room. €53-80.
- 🌍 Hôtel De France, 26 Quai Sadi Carnot, ☏ +33 4 68 84 80 35, accueil@hoteldefrance-perpignan.fr. Check-in: 14:00-0:00, check-out: 11:00-12:00. The Grand old hotel of Perpignan, opened in 1833, and guests over the years include Édith Piaf, Orson Welles and Salvador Dali. Rooms have views over the banks of Basse, Castillet and old town streets. All rooms have ensuite bathrooms, flatscreen tv and air conditioning. €45-70.
- 🌍 Kyriad Perpignan-Sud, 30 rue du Docteur Koch, ☏ +33 4 68 88 18 88, perpignan.sud@kyriad.fr. Check-in: 16:00-23:00, check-out: 0:00-11:00. Three star hotel with 50 rooms. €69-95.
- 🌍 Campanile Perpignan-Sud, 12 rue Alphonse Laveran - Porte d'Espagne, ☏ +33 4 68 56 75 75, perpignan@campanile.fr. Check-in: 16:00-23:00, check-out: 0:00-11:00. At Porte d'Espagne near the southern ring road. The hotels has 44 rooms and a restaurant. €49-70.
- 🌍 Campanile Perpignan Aéroport, Espace Roussillon-Nord 66600 Rivesaltes, ☏ +33 4 68 38 55 38, perpignannord@campanile.fr. Check-in: 16:00-23:00, check-out: 0:00-11:00. Near the motorway (exit 41) and the airport. 64 rooms, of which three are adapted to disabled guests. All rooms have bathroom or shower, flatscreen tv and air conditioning. €49-70.
- 🌍 ibis Perpignan Centre, 16 Cours Lazare Escarguel, ☏ +33 4-68356262. Part of the French chain that can be found all over the globe. Basic and clean. €55-75.
Splurge
- 🌍 Hôtel Nyx, 62 bis, avenue du Général de Gaulle, ☏ +33 4 68 34 87 48, nyx@nyxhotel.fr. 7:00-20:00. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. Three star hotel in the historical centre, with 17 rooms, each in different style (one is adapted to disabled guests). All rooms have shower, tv and air conditioning. The Superior rooms have a mini fridge and balcony too. €89-149.
- 🌍 Villa Duflot, Rond-Point Albert Donnezan, Serrat Den Vaquer, ☏ +33 4 68 56 67 67, fax: +33 4 68 56 54 05, contact@villa-duflot.com. Check-in: 15:00-0:00, check-out: before noon. Outside town with large well-equipped rooms. The patio has parasols, there's a pool, garden and a gourmet restaurant. €120-160.
- 🌍 Chateau La Tour Apollinaire, 15 rue Guillaume Apollinaire, ☏ +33468924302, enquiries@latourapollinaire.com. Check-in: 4PM-midnight, check-out: noon. A luxury oasis with pool set in exotic gardens. €100-150.
- 🌍 Domaine Saint-Nicolas, 34 rue Bauséjour, ☏ +33 4 68 61 15 36, gene@domainesaintnicolas.fr. Mansion with three rooms (named Glycine, Bougainvillée and Bambou) for guests. No restaurant. €105-145.
- 🌍 La maison haute, 17 impasse Drancourt, ☏ +33 4 68 34 76 64, martine.musy@orange.fr. Mansion with a smaller and a larger guest room (suite for four persons) and two apartments named Cabrit and Drancourt. room : €45-85. apartment : €240-420/week.
Cope
Media
French, Spanish and Catalan tv and radio channels can be received in Perpignan. There are two local daily newspapers: Midi Libre and L'Indépendant.
Stay safe
Perpignan is a reasonably safe city compared to larger and more populous ones. Being street smart and taking basic precautions should be enough to avoid problems.
However, some parts of the city, namely the district of Saint-Jacques, should be visited with caution, and ideally never on your own. No matter where you go in town, never wear jewellery or other signs of wealth. Also, don't leave valuables in parked cars.
- 🌍 Main police station (Hôtel de police nationale de Perpignan), 33 avenue de Grande-Bretagne, ☏ +33 4 68 35 70 00.
Stay healthy
- 🌍 Centre hospitalier de Perpignan, 20 avenue du Languedoc, ☏ +33 4 68 61 66 33. Public hospital, which as the name reveals is the main hospital in Perpignan. There's an emergency room, and specialists of many healthcare areas.
- 🌍 Clinique Saint-Pierre, 169 avenue de Prades, ☏ +33 4 68 85 25 80. A private emergency clinic, part of the Médipôle Sud-Santé group
- 🌍 Clinique mutualiste catalane, 60 rue Louis Mouillard, ☏ +33 4 68 63 73 73. One of the main private clinics in town.
Go next
- 🌍 Canet-en-Roussillon (9 km east). A bedroom community for the Perpignan region, doubling as a seaside resort with 9 km of fine sand beaches, a lively port, arboretum, pond and aquarium.
- 🌍 Elne (12 km southeast). Picturesque city where history is very visible through its ramparts, alleys and 11th century Romanesque cathedral.
- 🌍 Salses-le-Château (15 km north). This small town in the Corbières maritimes is famous for its 15th century fortress that Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella of Castille had built. The architecture of the fortress was revolutionary in its time and marks the transformation from medieval castle-forts to the fortified bastions of the modern age.
- 🌍 Collioure (25 km southeast). On the Côte Vermeille, this town has been immortialized through the works of early 20th-century Fauvist artists. The small port is dominated by a church whose bell tower doubles as a lighthouse. With narrow alleys and pastel colored house façades, Collioure has a truly Mediterranean ambiance and is a popular tourist destination.
- 🌍 Eus (35 km west). One of the Plus beaux villages France, this small fortified village clings to its rocks in the middle of scrubland and orchards. For a special experience, visit during the spring when the peach trees bloom. Attractions include the Saint-Vincent church and the steep pebble alleys.
- 🌍 Abbaye Saint-Martin du Canigou (55 km west). Founded by Count of Cerdanya Guifred II in 997, this is a Benedictine monastery sitting on a rocky peak that used to be hard to access. It's composed of a lower and upped church (both in Romanesque style), a cloister and convent buildings used by the Communauté des Béatitudes.
- Going south, Northeastern Spain, i.e. Catalonia, is just around 30 km away.