Carnival of Cayenne

The carnival has its roots in Guianan Creole culture, which was influenced by European colonization of the Americas from the 15th to the 19th centuries. During this time, carnivals organized by French settlers excluded slaves from participating. In response, the slaves created a festival of their own in secret as a way to reclaim a sense of freedom, celebrate fertility and bountiful harvests, and to satirize and mock the settlers.

The duration of the carnival varies each year and is determined by religious festivals. It typically takes place between Epiphany, which occurs at the beginning of January, and Ash Wednesday, which marks the start of Lent and is calculated based on the date of Easter in either February or March. The carnival festivities span from Friday evening to Monday morning.[1]

The "grass days" mark the conclusion of the carnival, culminating on Ash Wednesday.[1]

Touloulous in the streets of Cayenne in 2007.

The Guianan carnival features several traditional costumes that represent mythical figures.

Every Sunday afternoon (usually a little earlier than 3 pm), parades take place in the streets of Cayenne. Groups dressed according to the theme of the year parade around decorated floats, accompanied by the rhythmic beats of drums, brass, and string instruments. The preparation of these groups lasts for several months leading up to the carnival. The parades attract tens of thousands of delighted spectators who gather on the sidewalks and stands specially arranged for the occasion.[2]

The most well-known groups participating in the parades are:

• Kassialata
• Star Apple
• Kalajirou
• Piraye
• Reno Band
• Ijakata
• Kouman
• Chiré Ban'n
• Osband
• The Belles de la Madeleine
• Junior City
• Wanted
• Mayouri Tchô-NèG
• Patawa Folia

In addition to these groups, Brazilian bands similar to those encountered in the Rio Carnival are also appreciated for their rhythms and costumes. The Asian community of French Guiana also actively participates in the parades, adding vibrant dragon displays.

Traditional Galette des Rois.

During the carnival, families come together to enjoy the "galette des rois," a traditional cake known as the "slab of kings" in Europe during the Epiphany, which is extended throughout the carnival period. Usually, the person who finds the hidden token or trinket in the cake becomes the "king" and is responsible for providing the cake at the next gathering. The cake can be made with frangipane, guava, or coconut.[3]

After the abolition of slavery in 1848, Guyana's economy faced challenges, and a large portion of the population lived by working the land in communal settings called "houses." People cultivated the land and understood the value of working together, known as "Mayouri." It was during this time in French Guiana that the tradition of the "cake of the kings," or more precisely the "makes the bouquet," was born. This tradition consisted of a couple organizing a meal and a party, and at the end of the gathering, passing the bouquet to another couple, designating them to organize the next meeting. This tradition is often thought to symbolize the spirit of community and cooperation among the people of French Guiana.

The parade of touloulous.

The "Dancings," also known as "Universities," organize masked balls called "Tololos Ball" where men dress as Touloulous and invite undisguised women to dance. These evenings take place on Friday and Saturday nights, depending on the municipality. This unique tradition is specific to French Guiana and is not found elsewhere, although there are now dancings in Paris and some cities in France that organize similar balls.

The Tololos Ball is a relatively recent innovation, having emerged in the 1990s. During these events, men disguise themselves as Touloulous and take on their role by inviting women to dance. These evenings have gained popularity and now occur multiple times during the carnival, with the most significant one happening on the last Friday before the fat days.

The carnival dances include the mazurka, the polka, the biguine, and the piké djouk. Touloulous have the privilege of inviting men to dance, and the men cannot refuse their invitation.[4] Only Touloulous are allowed to dance, and if an undisguised woman tries to dance, the orchestra stops playing.

In the capital city, there is only one university known as "Nana" or "Soleil levant."

The Blues Stars.

There are several famous carnival groups in French Guiana, including:

• Les Mécènes, who perform in the hall Polina. Their star singer, Bernard Inglis, was a pillar of the Guyanese carnival until his death in 2002.
• Les Blues Stars, known for their performances at Nana (Soleil levant). The image of their star singer, Victor Clet, also known as Quéquette, was printed on the bottles of Rhum Saint-Maurice during the 2006 carnival, due to his popularity.[5]
• Karnivor, a group consisting of Saul Sylvestre (author, composer), 18 musicians, Arnaud Champestaing, and Nadège Chauvet (singer of the group). Karnivor received seven Lindor awards at the Lindor ceremony, which recognizes the achievements of Guyanese artists for their production during the year.[6]

This expression, "empty the room" ball, originated from the tradition of holding videos (vidés) that took place in the early hours of Sunday after the Saturday night's masked ball. The purpose of these videos was to encourage all the dancers to leave the venue and continue the festivities outside on the streets until they eventually returned home.

Initially, there was also a Vide after the last group of the Sunday street carnival in the early evening. A large crowd, including both young and old, would follow a truck on which an orchestra played the lively rhythms of the carnival.

Some of these videos led to violence between gangs of young people from different neighborhoods, resulting in serious consequences. As a result, these videos were banned for a long period of time.

Today, the audience for the vidés mainly consists of enthusiasts who willingly wake up early in the morning to participate in the emptied celebrations.