Khujand (called Leninabad in the Soviet period) is a city in Tajikistan. Khujand is a vibrant, cosmopolitan city, and is Tajikistan's second-largest city. Khujand is a cultural hub for the western portion of the Ferghana Valley. During the Soviet Union, Khujand was known as being "Lenin's Favorite City". Whether that was true or just an urban legend is unknown, but a trip to Khujand will certainly be a highlight of your time in Tajikistan.
Understand
Khujand is the second largest city in Tajikistan (163,000 inhabitants), in the Ferghana Valley on both banks of the Syr Darya river, known in Greek sources as the Jaxartes.
Khujand is an old city, having been founded by Alexander the Great in 329 BCE as Alexandria Eschate (Furthest Alexandria). It sits on the historic Silk Road in a strategic position, at the exit of the valley, where it can tax trade and resist invasions. Khujand was a moderately important trading city on that route for centuries.
Get in
By plane
- 🌍 Khujand Airport (LBD IATA) (in Buston, Gafurov district, 10 km from Khujand). is an international airport. Often is referred to by its Soviet name - Chkalovsk, formerly known as Leninabad (during the Soviet era). Khujand airport has many flights to Russia.
There are weekly 40-minute flights between Khujand and Dushanbe through Somon Air. During the winter months, when the pass between the cities is treacherous (due to snowfall and avalanches), these flights become the safest way to get between the cities.
By bus/taxi
Shared taxis and marshrutkas to Dushanbe, Panjakent, Istaravshan and other southern Tajikistan destinations depart from the central bus station (avtovokzal). The ride to Dushanbe cost 120 somoni in a shared taxi (2017). Shared taxis and marshrutkas also go to the town of Isfara, located about an hour to the east.
Marshrutkas and taxis to the Uzbekistan border depart from the northern bus station. Taxis to Oybek post should cost about 50-80 somoni.
One note: the road between Khujand and Dushanbe (especially between Istaravshan and Ayni) can be very dangerous, especially in the winter and spring. It is a quintessential mountain pass at upwards of 3000m in height, with no guardrails or safety corridors. While an absolutely stunning drive, it should not be attempted in bad weather or by those who have a fear of heights.
Unfortunately, the Kyrgyz-Tajik border has been closed to international travel since the outbreak of hostilities in 2021. But when the border is open, it is easy to get between Osh, Batken, and Khujand. Also, the Khujand-Isfara road is the border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Check with your embassy before traveling on the road just in case hostilities erupt between the two nations.
Get around
Khujand is a pretty walkable city, although distances may seem shorter on maps than they are. Both of the main bridges across the Syr Darya in the center of town have sidewalks.
Taxi should cost not more than 10 somoni for any destination in the city. Taxi to the airport costs about 30 somoni. There are plenty of marshrutkas as well (1 somoni per journey in 2017). The young people know English quite well, and some know German.
There are also some buses called marshutkas, which can get you from Panjshanbe to many other places such as Somoni Park and Kamoli Khujandi Park. Prices are 2.5 somoni for one adult in 2023. Each marshrutka has a placard in the windows that says the route number and major destinations (in Tajik). For most purposes, the specific number of the route will not matter - instead, look for certain place names:
- Универмаг (Univermag - main shopping street)
- Ёва (Yova - district where many marshrutkas congregate)
- Панҷшанбе (Panjshanbe - main market near Univermag and marshrutka "nest")
- Сомони (Somoni - major park)
- Ҷумъа (бозор) - (Jum'a - major market on the north side of the river)
Be careful at the Panjshanbe marshrutka station - there is a difference between Сомони and Сомон - the former is a city park and the latter is a major clothing bazaar located on the outskirts of town and marshrutkas that go to each destination stop at Panjshanbe.
See
For an almost 3000 year old city, there are very few historical sites left. Still, Khujand has plenty to offer. Here are some places to see in town:
- 🌍 Somoni Park, Ave Ismoili Somoni. Monument to Ismail Somoni is located on the right bank of the Syr Darya. It stands on top of a hill surrounded by fountains. As of 2023, the fountains are empty.
- 🌍 Mausoleum of Sheikh Muslihiddin (Мавзолей Шейха Муслихиддина), Sharq Street (next to Panjshanbe Bazaar). The resting place of Sheikh Muslihiddin, author of the important Islamic text Sahih e Bukhari.
- 🌍 Panjshanbe Bazaar (Рынок "Панчшанбе"). daily 07:00-20:00. Nice Stalin-era building and a good place for shopping local food.
- 🌍 Historical Museum of Sughd Region (Осорхонаи таърихии вилояти Суғд), ☏ +992 92 767 8393. Tu-Su 08:00-16:00, closed M. Possibly the most notable aspect is the building the museum is housed in, the reconstructed Khujand Fortress/citadel from approximately the 10th century, but the museum too is quite remarkable, tracing the history of the area from the time of Alexander the Great. Part of the gallery is built within the reconstructed wall.
- 🌍 Kamoli Khujand Park (Боги ба номи К. Худжанди). Site of a mausoleum-like building with earth from the grave of the poet Kamal Khujandi, three music stages with beautiful wooden carvings, springs and a reconstructed house exhibit of a rich Tajik from Khujand. Also where you can catch the tramway (Kanatnaya Doroga) over the river.
- 🌍 Arbob Palace (Дворец культуры «Арбоб»). A government building that was built in the 1950s as headquarters for a Soviet kolkhoz (collective farm). It was modeled after the Winter Palace in Saint Petersburg and is where the independence of Tajikistan and flag design were drafted. Probably not a place you can just go snooping around snapping photos ad nauseam.
- 🌍 Independence day monument. A stele next to the river and a very tall Tajik flagpole. Just to the east of here is a monument to the illustrious poet Rudaki, a founder of classical Persian literature.
- Theatre "Xudƶandi". Interesting Soviet-era building on a beautiful place with springs and restaurants.
- Cultural Center Interesting building in an pseudo-ancient (and also bling-bling) style for weddings and cultural parties of the city. It is on the left river bank beside the main bridge.
The part of town north of the river is mainly residential/commercial, with little interest to the traveler. However, the Nuri Islom mosque, one of the city's largest and nicest, is located on the north side. Women are not allowed in the mosque.
Do
- 🌍 Kanatnaya Doroga (Канатная дорога). daily 10:00-22:00. Ride an aerial tramway between Kamoli Khujand Park and Somoni Park, over the Syr Darya River. It is right next to the Sugdiyon Hotel.
There may periodically be river cruises along the Syr Darya that are offered.
Haggle (or try to) with locals in one of the many bazaars.
Most tourists use Khujand as a jumping-off point for trips into the Fann mountains, where there is a lot of hiking and natural attractions.
Buy
If your Tajik and/or Russian skills are particularly good, it's worth spending the better portion of a day at Panjshanbe. Here, you can get a wide variety of local Tajik produce, meats, clothing (imported from China or Turkey), pets/pet products, kitchen supplies, and more!
The Jum'a Bozor and the Somon Bozor are the other major shopping centers in Khujand, although they will most likely be of little interest to the traveler, since they primarily sell appliances (Jum'a) and generic clothing (Somon). If, however, you are in urgent need of a new washing machine or pair of shoes, they are great places to get good deals.
Univermag region is host to a smattering of stores that range in theme and quality. A large amount of these will be no different than the stores in your hometown, but if you're a shopaholic, it's a good street to walk down and window shop. It is the street that connects Khujandi Park with Panjshanbe, so it can easily be strolled on the way to/from Panjshanbe.
Eat
Locals claim that they have the best food in all of Tajikistan! While you may (or may not) agree, it certainly is worth trying. The Khujandi version of plov is very similar to the Samarkandi style, as opposed to the Dushanbe style found in the southern half of the country.
Drink
There aren't many nightclubs or bars in Khujand, but alcohol stores can be found on most streets. Prices are generally slightly cheaper than in countries like the US or most of Europe, but the quality may reflect that.
Sleep
- 🌍 Sugdiyon (Сугдиён), ☏ +992 92 444 1444. Affordable Western-style hotel located in the heart of the city, near the Citadel and the Rudaki monument. Rooms show their age, but probably has the best location in the city. Also has a pool and sauna in the basement for both guests and outsiders (charged different fees). Usually lit up at night so can serve as a landmark while exploring the town.
- 🌍 Somoni-Hostel, Ave Ismoili Somoni 7a, ☏ +992 92 621 7887. If you're looking for something very budget, this might work. Might be kind of basic but location is good, next to museum and parks and river, plus there's breakfast. 186 som.
Connect
There are a plethora of T-Cell and Megafon stores and kiosks in the city. If you haven't already got a Tajik SIM card, you can go to any of the stores and get one. You can also use any orange kiosk to add funds to your account.
Go next
To the east the Kairakum reservoir is located near the city of Guliston (not to be confused with the same-named city in Uzbekistan). Marshrutkas run to Guliston, but you may prefer to take a taxi.
Dushanbe: There are only shared taxis going from Khujand to Dushanbe. The cost seems to vary between 60 and 120 som depending on the time of day, week, waiting time and type of car. The roads have been much improved from 2005, and a 2WD is (May 2019) as good as a 4WD. Drivers do not tend to rip tourists off for this route as the competition is so high. Haggling is possible within about 20 som on any given day. The drive takes 4-5 hours depending on whether the drivers stop for lunch, and the views of the Fann Mountains are stunning. Talk of the Anzob Tunnel being risky is outdated, the infrastructure in the "Tunnel of Death" is improved now and its reputation is no longer deserved, although cycling or walking through would be a very bad idea.