Protective hairstyle

Protective hairstyles and braids are an important aspect of African culture, dating back thousands of years. With many intricate patterns and styles, these braids are said to resemble strength and creativity in African tribes and communities. Braids were often used to distinguish between tribes as well as indicate wealth, religion, age, marital status, and ethnicity.[14] Even today, braids and other styles are a rite of passage in life. They also are a way for women of color to express themselves.[15] However, as discrimination and hair bias increase, women from all around the world are constantly changing their identities to fit into today's society. For instance, women are most likely to switch up their hair from their natural state to a more accepted hairstyle for a job interview, like curly to straight hair.[16]

At the wake of slavery, many women and men from Africa were forced to shave their heads, stripping them of not only their hair but also their culture and humanity. Before that, many slaves used their braiding hairstyles as maps of the land and shortage for small grains and nuts. With this, many laws were created to prohibit braids and other cultural and protective hairstyles. These laws were not overturned until the Black Power Movement in the 60s and 70s. Even after the laws were overturned, many still faced discrimination due to their hair type and hairstyles. This had stripped many people of the use of their braids as a form of culture to the use of braids as function; to keep hair manageable. Many styles were simplified and sometimes they were a struggle to maintain, not having proper access to products and tools. This led to many people using substances like kerosine to moisturize their hair. Later cultural movements would brings back this sense of culture in wearing these protective hairstyles. The word nappy has been used to reference the "frizzy texture" of African American hair since the 1880s.[17][18]

Braids and cornrows were also used to escape slavery. Since slaves were not allowed to learn how to read or write, another methods of communication was necessary. Thus, came the use of cornrows to draw out maps and pass messages to escape slavery. This method was even used within the Underground Railroad. Additionally, rice and seeds would be woven into the braids in order to grow food after they had escaped.[19][20][21]

Before using protective hairstyles, it is important to cleanse the hair and the scalp thoroughly, as most protective styles are left in for weeks at a time and cleansing rids hair of product, dirt and oil buildup. A sulfate free shampoo is recommended as to not cause damage and it is important to be gentle while shampooing as rough washing can cause friction and lead to breakage. To prevent water damage and restore oils and moisture into the hair after washing, the next necessary step is to use a deep conditioner and sometimes a leave in conditioner. These conditioners can be paired with additional oils to ensure healthy hair and minimize breakage before, during and after using protective hairstyles to manage hair.[22]

After the hair is installed, there are many ways to maintain the health of the hair and the style. One of these ways are to wrap hair before sleeping in satin or silk as to minimize friction and frizz created from bedding. A lightweight hair gel can also be added while wrapping hair to further reduce the creation of frizz and flyaways. With the scalp being exposed, it is very important to clean it periodically with shampoo diluted with water. After this and throughout wearing the hairstyles, it is necessary to moisturize the scalp after washing and moisturize the hair regularly. This can be done with many types of oils and leave in conditioners.[23][24]