Nütsah

A Nütsah is a traditional shawl created and woven by Khiamniungans of Noklak district in north-eastern India. The other shawl is called Papanie, which is purely white. The Nütsah could only be worn by the wealthy and warriors who had successfully taken the heads of enemy warriors. In modern times, the right to wear the Nütsah is associated with any male individual in the family as a demonstration of cultural acceptance, signifying ancestral fierceness and a distinctive symbol of the Khiamniungan Nagas.[1]

History

In pre-colonial Khiamniungan society, shawls were used to classify the social status of male groups. This prestige symbol is given to higher social status who had earned it by his courageous war-performance putting down many enemies. The Nütsah was considered as the highest-ranking male shawl in ancient Khiamniungan society.[2]

Design and symbol

The background of the Nütsah is black with intricate design of red square spread across with orange line woven at the edge of all four corners. The design at the edges is called Nütsah Shah. Thick bold motifs of men and animals are embroidered in the central part and attached cowrie-ornamented patterns that represent the valour of warrior. "The circles of cowrie shells are a reference to feasts of merit which the owner has hosted, or they symbolize the shining stars in the sky during a nightly raid, or the moon and thus female fertility. The stylized human figure indicates the owner’s success in head-taking. In earlier days such cloths could only be worn by accomplished warriors and wealthy men."[3] The red square depicts fierce bloody war champion, and the blue lines are a symbol of dominant disposition of all mankind.[4] All these are closely related to being formidable in war explain by J.H. Hutton in his work.[5]

Craft

In the traditional Khiamniungan Society, Nütsah was purely woven by womenfolk who were practically skilled. It is a time-consuming ordeal and requires sincere devotion and attention to complete the task. The structure or stand to weave is locally called Nüloh Pai and act of weaving is called Nüloh. Also, the stand to arrange the thread is called Ieshu pai, that spins when the thread is pulled.[6][7]

Cultural impact

All other Naga ethnic groups are well known for their shawls, and the Nütsah is the epitome of renowned champion over unique and intricate design. Regardless of ethnic origin, in modern times it can be worn by anyone either indigenous or foreign in consonance with cultural exchanges.[8] But the shawls with cowrie-shell decorations are reserved for distinguished members of society. It is mainly used by cultural troops performing traditional head-hunting dances especially during festivals and events.[9]

See also

References
  1. Shawls of Nagaland Richa Prakash, Sharada Devi and D. AnithaCollege of Home Science, Acharya N. G. Ranga Agricultural University
  2. History , Sponsored under Tribal department of Art and Culture
  3. Joshi 2008, NAGA : A Forgotten Mountain Region Rediscovered _ EN, Museum der Kulteren Basel, Page - 103.
  4. : Khiamniungan Shawl Hornbill festival 2011
  5. : J.H. Hutton, Diaries of Two Tours in the Unadministered Area East of the Naga Hills', 1926
  6. mirrior : Journalism for justice
  7. :The land of culture: Tuensang Handicrafts
  8. culture heritage in India : The unique narrative of shawls worn among 16 major tribes: Reflecting one’s social standing and the younger generation’s changing tastes – Nagaland
  9. Joshi 2008, NAGA : A Forgotten Mountain Region Rediscovered _ EN, Museum der Kulteren Basel, Page - 103.
This article is issued from Wikipedia. The text is licensed under Creative Commons - Attribution - Sharealike. Additional terms may apply for the media files.