Laura Rogora

Laura Rogora (born 28 April 2001) is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing. In 2021, she became the third-ever woman in history to climb a 9b route.

Laura Rogora
Personal information
NationalityItalian
Born (2001-04-28) April 28, 2001
Rome, Italy
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height152 cm (5 ft 0 in)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • Second youngest ever (at age 14) to climb at 9a (5.14d)
  • Third-ever female to climb at 9b (5.15b).
First ascents
  • Rèveille-toi (9a)
  • Sitting Bull (8c+/9a)
  • Ercole (8c/+)
  • La Gasparata (8c+/9a)
  • Supercrack (8b+/8c)
  • Tomorrowland Ext (8c+/9a)
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing  Italy
World Championships
Bronze medal – third place2021 MoscowLead
European Championships
Silver medal – second place2019Lead
Updated on 30 July 2023.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

In 2019, Rogora qualified to compete at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games,[1] by finishing second in lead climbing at the IFSC Climbing European Championships[2] and won 3 of 4 possible gold medals at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships, coming first in lead climbing, bouldering and the combined categories in the Junior age group.[3]

She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined Olympic climbing.[4][5]

Sport climbing

In 2015, she became the second youngest climber, at age 14, to complete a 9a (5.14d) route, and is only the third woman in history to have redpointed a 9b (5.15b) route.[6]

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes
  • 9a+ (5.15a)
    • Ali Hulk Sit Extension Total, Rodellar, Spain, July 2020 (was once considered potential 9b)[7][8]
    • Pure Dreaming Plus, Arco, Italy, 30 May 2020 (First female ascent and first repeat of the route, established by Adam Ondra)[9]
    • The Bow, Arco, Italy, November 2020[10]
  • 9a (5.14d)
    • Grandi Gesti, Sperlonga, Italy, March 2016
    • Joe-cita, Oliana, Spain, February 2017
    • Esclatamasters, Perles, Spain, January 2019
    • La Bongada, Margalef, Spain, January 2020
    • The Bomb, Rodellar, Spain, July 2020
  • 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d)
    • Pal Norte, Margalef, Spain, December 2019
    • Underground, Massone, Italy, June 2020
  • 8c+ (5.14c)
    • Joe Blau, Oliana, Spain, January 2017
    • Hulk Extension Total, Rodellar, Spain, July 2020
  • 8c (5.14b)
    • Ciccio Formaggio, Grotta dell’Aerenauta, Sperlonga, Italy, December 2014 (her first 8c at age 13).
    • Il Corvo, Ferentillo, Italy, April 2015
    • Wallstreet, Frankenjura, Germany, August 2016

First ascents
  • Tomorrowland extension, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, November 2016
  • Supercrack, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, December 2016
  • La Gasparata, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, January 2017
  • Ercole, 8c+ (5.14c), Cueva di Collepardo, March 2017
  • It segid narg, 8c+ (5.14c), Grotta dell'Arenauta Sperlonga, December 2017
  • Sitting Bull, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, April 2018
  • Rèveille-toi, 9a (5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, June 2019

Onsighted routes
  • 8b+ (5.14a)
    • Ixeia, Rodellar, Spain, July 2020
    • L-mens, Montsant, Spain, January 2020

Competition climbing highlights

IFSC Olympic qualifying

IFSC Climbing European Championships
  • 2020 IFSC Climbing World Cup (Briançon)
    • Women lead: 1st
  • 2019 IFSC Climbing European Championships (Edinburgh)
    • Women lead: 2nd

IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships
  • 2019 IFSC Youth World Championships (Arco)
    • Female Youth Juniors combined: 1st
    • Female Youth Juniors boulder: 1st
    • Female Youth Juniors lead: 1st
  • 2018 IFSC Youth World Championships (Moscow)
    • Female Youth A boulder: 1st
    • Female Youth A lead: 6th
  • 2017 IFSC Youth World Championships (Innsbruck)
    • Female Youth A combined: 6th
    • Female Youth A boulder: 4th
    • Female Youth A combined: 5th

European Youth Championships
  • 2017 European Youth Championships (Lead & Speed) (Perm)
    • Female Youth A lead: 4th

See also

References
  1. "SIX WOMEN QUALIFY FOR OLYMPICS IN TOULOUSE". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 1 December 2019. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
  2. "Lučka Rakovec and Adam Ondra crowned European Climbing Champions in Edinburgh". Planet Mountain. 6 October 2019. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
  3. "IFSC YOUTH WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 31 August 2019. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
  4. "Laura Rogora, arrampicando verso Tokyo". VanityFair.it (in Italian). 2021-04-30. Retrieved 2021-09-25.
  5. "Sport Climbing ROGORA Laura - Tokyo 2020 Olympics". olympics.com. Retrieved 2021-09-25.
  6. "Fifteen-Year-Old Laura Rogora Sends Joe-Cita (5.14d)". Rock & Ice. 28 February 2017. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
  7. Climber News. "Laura Rogora Second Woman To Climb 9b "Ali Hulk Sit Extension Total"". Climber News.
  8. "Ali Hulk extensión total sit start 9a+ (b) by Alex Garriga". 8a.nu. 23 August 2021. Retrieved 21 January 2022.
  9. "Pure Dreaming Plus 9a+ by Laura Rogora (18)". www.8a.nu. 1 June 2020. Retrieved 2020-06-01.
  10. "Laura Rogora Sends The Bow 5.15a". Retrieved 2020-11-25.
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