Kakiage

Kakiage or kaki-age (かき揚げ, 掻き揚げ or かきあげ), a Japanese dish, is a type of tempura. It is made by batter-dipping and deep-frying a batch of ingredients such as shrimp bits (or a clump of small-sized shrimp). Kakiage may use other seafood such as small scallops, shredded vegetables or a combination of such ingredients.

Kakiage
Kaki age don (kaki age tendon)

General description

A kaki age soba (tempura soba)
Kaki age udon

Kakiage is a type of tempura that uses small pieces of seafood, or vegetable or both.

Sometimes the main ingredients are clumps of fish or shellfish that are individually small,[1] or chopped into small pieces.[2]

The variety of seafood used include shrimp, mollusks like scallop,[2] or fish,[3][1] and can be combined with vegetables such as onion or mitsuba.[4] The kakiage may also use vegetarian ingredients such as carrots, burdock, or onions chopped into matchsticks[5][6] or into bits.[1]

Preparation

The lump being fried is shaped into disks,[lower-alpha 1][6] and the kakiage are sometimes described as a "pancake" of sorts.[2] It is also referred to as a type of "fritter".[7][8]

The recipe may call for gently sliding the dollop of battered ingredients into hot oil,[6] and since it may try to break apart, a spatula may be used to hold it into place until the shape has set.[9] There is a modern-day implement being sold called a kakiage ring to assist in its cooking—a cylindrical, perforated sheet metal mold on a handle.[10]

In traditional preparation, these small pieces breaking apart must be constantly "raked together" (Japanese: kakiageru (掻き上げる)).[11]

Serving options

Kakiage may be eaten with tentsuyu or tempura dipping sauce and grated daikon radishes,[8] or with seasoned salt,[9] just like any other type of tempura.

It may also be served as a kakiage donburi or kakiage don, which is a rice bowl dish with a piece of kakiage placed on top of steamed rice.[12][7] A tendon (tempura bowl) may also include a piece of kakiage among other tempura morsels.[13]

Kakiage may top a bowl of kakesoba (hot soba in broth) or udon.[7]

Ingredients used in Japan

The kakiage typically uses a type of shrimp called shiba ebi (Metapenaeus spp.), whereas the individual whole shrimp tempura commonly uses both the shiba ebi and saimaki ebi (juvenile kuruma ebi).[14][15]

Another standard is using a type of small "scallops" called kobashira which are actually the adductor muscles of the bakagai or aoyagi clams (Mactra chinensis).[16][11]

Kakiage using fresh sakura shrimp are usually offered in the vicinity of Suruga Bay, Shizuoka Prefecture where these are caught,[17] although some recipes may call for the dried sakura shrimp which are more widely available.[18]

Etymology

The kakiage is so-named because one "mixes up" kakimazeru (かき混ぜる) the ingredients before they are fried, or so it has been claimed, e.g., by the tempura chef and proprietor of Tenkichi in Yokohama.[19]

Scholar Ikeda Yasaburō also introduces the same etymology, anecdotally quoting another tempura chef.[lower-alpha 2][20]

History

Morisada mankō (written 1837–1853) stated that the tempura offered at soba noodle shops at the time used shiba ebi shrimp[21] (Metapenaeus joyneri). According to a soba researcher, tempura soba was invented around the Bunsei era (1818–1830), using the shiba ebi shrimp kakiage as topping.[22][23]

The former shogun Tokugawa Yoshinobu (1837–1913) was a regular customer at the tempura restaurant Tenkin, where he would order an especially large kakiage, served on a Nabeshima plate.[24]

See also

Explanatory notes

  1. Rather than into balls or other shapes.
  2. This chef was lecturing to a customer that the kakiage he ordered was not deep-fried kaki, which would be kaki furai.

Citations

Footnotes

  1. Hosking, Richard (2015). "kakiage". A Dictionary of Japanese Food: Ingredients & Culture. C.N. Potter. p. 64. ISBN 9781462903436.
  2. Kondo, Sonoko; Stoumen, Louis Clyde (1986). The Poetical Pursuit of Food: Japanese Recipes for American Cooks. C.N. Potter. p. 174. ISBN 9780517556535.
  3. Yamaguchi, Momoo; Kojima, Setsuko (1979). "kaki-age". A Cultural Dictionary of Japan. Japan Times. p. 95. ISBN 9784789000949.
  4. Nabeko ナベコ (2019-03-18), "Tendon Tenya 'kakiage tendon' fukkatsu" 天丼てんや「かき揚げ天丼」復活, Shūkan Ascii
  5. Ono & Salat (2013), p. 124.
  6. Hashimoto (2016), p. 98.
  7. Ono & Salat (2013), p. 121.
  8. Hara, Luiz (2018). "Kakiage". The Japanese Larder: Bringing Japanese Ingredients into Your Everyday Cooking. Quarto Publishing. p. 192. ISBN 9781781318836.
  9. Matsuhisa, Nobu; Edwards, Mark (1986). Nobu West. C.N. Potter. p. 100. ISBN 9780740765476.
  10. Hirose, Takayo 広瀬敬代 (2017-02-14). "Hanahiraku onion ni shokunin-waza kakikage agemono senyō dōgu 4sen" 花開くオニオンに職人技かき揚げ 揚げ物専用道具4選 [From blooming onion to craftsman skill kakiage: selection of 4 deep-frying tools]. Nikkei.
  11. Sasakawa, Rinpū 笹川臨風 (1965). "19 Mikaku sōmakuri 味覺總まくり". Meiji sukigaeshi 明治還魂紙. p. 160. {{cite book}}: |work= ignored (help)
  12. Hashimoto (2016), p. 117.
  13. Snyder, Garrett (2012-09-18). "46: Edomae Tendon Bowl at Hannosuke". LA Weekly.
  14. Hosking (2015), p. 37.
  15. Okuyama (1972), p. 259:"シバエビ..クルマエビより味はやや落ちるが、付け焼き、煮もの、てんぶらのかき揚げ、酢の物など、利用法は多い (Shiba ebi.. slightly less tasty than kuruma ebi, but is marinade-broiled, braised, made into kakiage tenpura, etc., there are many uses)"; p. 119: "エビ.. シバエビは.. てんぷらに向く。クルマエビの小さいのをサイマキといい、てんぷら用 (ebi [shrimp].. shiba ebi.. is suited for tempura.. small-sized kuruma ebi is called saimaki and used for tenpura)".
  16. Tada, Tetsunosuke 多田鉄之助 (1985). "kakiage" かき揚げ. Nihon daihyakka zensho 日本大百科全書. Vol. 4. Shogakukan. p. 876.
  17. Noguchi, Takuro; Miyasako, Junko (2018-12-14). "Shrimp fishing season scrapped amid depletion in Suruga Bay". Asahi Shimbun.
  18. Itoh, Makiko (2013-05-24). "Springtime beans aim for the sky". Japan Times.
  19. Hara, Shigeo 原成男 (2005). Sake to namida to tenpura: Yokohama kōjitsu Tenkichi biyori 酒と涙と男と天ぷら 横濱好日・天吉日和. Kanagawa Shinbunsha. p. 160. ISBN 9784876453689.
  20. Ikeda, Yasaburō 池田弥三郎 (1965-07-20). Watashi no shokumotsushi 私の食物誌. Kawade Shobo. p. 179.; reprint, Shinchōsha, 1980, p. 244.
  21. Kitagawa, Kisō 喜田川季荘 (1908), Muromatsu, Iwao 室松岩雄 (ed.), Ruijū kinsei fūzokushi: genmei Morisada mankōi 類聚近世風俗志 : 原名守貞漫稿, vol. 2, Kokugakuin Daigaku Shuppanbu, p. 429
  22. Niijima, Shigeru 新島繁 (1975), 蕎麦入門, 保育社, p. 115, ISBN 9784586503438
  23. Iso, Naomichi 磯直道 (2006), Edo no haikai ni miru gyoshoku bunka 江戸の俳諧にみる魚食文化, Seizando shoten, p. 104, ISBN 9784425852314
  24. Ikeda, Yasaburō 池田弥三郎 (1965-05-25). Ginza jūnishō 銀座十二章. Asahi Shimbunsha. p. 54.; also quoted in Arisue Ken et al., Toshi no katsuryoku 都市の活力, 2, p. 603.

Bibliography

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