Herringbone (cloth)

Herringbone, also called broken twill weave,[1] describes a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern usually found in twill fabric. It is distinguished from a plain chevron by the break at reversal, which makes it resemble a broken zigzag. The pattern is called herringbone because it resembles the skeleton of a herring fish.[2] Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool, and is one of the most popular cloths used for suits and outerwear.[3] Tweed cloth is often woven with a herringbone pattern.

Donegal tweed (an example of herringbone)
Reversible camouflage HBTs

Fatigue uniforms made from cotton in this weave were used by several militaries during and after World War II; in US use, they were often called HBTs.[4][5]

History

Various herringbone weaves have been found in antiquity:

  • A pair of woolen leggings found in the permafrost of the Italian-Austrian Alps have a 2:2 herringbone weave, dating to 800 to 500 BC.[6]
  • A dark blue cloth with a 2:2 herringbone weave was found at Murabba'at Cave in Israel, from the Roman period.[6][7]
  • A textile with a 2:2 herringbone weave was found at Pompeii, from 79 AD.[6]
  • An illustration of a cloth having a herringbone weave from Antinoöpolis in Greece from 130 AD.[8]
  • The Falkirk Tartan, a wool 2:2 herringbone tartan found at Vindolanda in England from around 240 AD.[9][10]

See also

References
  1. Calasibetta, Charlotte Mankey (1988). Fairchild's dictionary of fashion. New York: Fairchild Publications. ISBN 0870056352. OCLC 17932099.
  2. "The RL Style Guide | Glossary | Herringbone". Ralph Lauren. Archived from the original on 2011-10-05. Retrieved 2008-11-24.
  3. Fashion Institute of Technology (2006). ""The Tailor's Art," Menswear Fabrics - A Glossary". The Museum at FIT. Archived from the original on 2013-06-05. Retrieved 2008-11-24.
  4. Stanton, Shelby (1992). "Summer Work and Service Uniforms". U.S. Army Uniforms of the Korean War. Stackpole Books. pp. 86–98. ISBN 0811729524.
  5. Robinson, Aaron (2009-08-19). "Storming Normandy in a World War II Jeep". Car and Driver. Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. Retrieved 2019-04-29.
  6. Fulbright, Diana (2010). "Akeldama repudiation of Turin Shroud omits evidence from the Judean Desert" (PDF). Proceedings of the International Workshop on the Scientific approach to the Acheiropoietos Images.
  7. Shamir, Orit (2015). "A burial textile from the first century CE in Jerusalem compared to roman textiles in the land of Israel and the Turin Shroud". SHS Web of Conferences.
  8. Tyrer, John (December 1981). "Looking at the Turin Shroud as a Textile" (PDF). Textile Horizons.
  9. Bailey, Geoff P. (2019). "The Falkirk Tartan" (PDF).
  10. "Tartan Details - Falkirk". The Scottish Register of Tartans. Archived from the original on 2023-01-18. Retrieved 2023-02-01.
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