Henry Day (British Army officer)

Colonel M W H (Henry) Day, MA, CEng, MICE, Royal Engineers was a British Army Officer (retired 9 April 1997)[1] who made the first British ascent (second ever ascent) of Annapurna I.[2][3] In addition to the first British ascent of Annapurna, he was an active member of the Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) and a member of the Alpine Club (UK) contributing to the Alpine Journal.[4] He was an active climber in the Alps and took part in the first winter ascent of the Grands Charmoz with Rob Collister.[5] He was member of the AMA Tirich Mir (1969) expedition, summiting the peak;[6] the AMA Himachal Pradesh (1973) expedition;[7] the 1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest.[8] He led a Royal Engineers expedition to Trisul II (1978)[9] and in 1981 a British Army expedition to the Da Xue Shan mountains in Sichuan province, China attempting to climb Jiaz (6,540 m).[10] In 1987 Henry Day led the climbers attempting to climb the virgin east face of Xixabangma (8,027 m),[11] in China, organised by the Scientific Exploration Society with a view to conducting scientific research en route. In 2008 he organised a climbing expedition to the Georgian Causasus.[12]

References
  1. London Gazette, Supplement No. 54735 14 April 1997. https://www.thegazette.co.uk/London/issue/54735/supplement/4467/data.pdf (accessed 29 December 2020)
  2. Day, Henry. "'Alpine Journal' – Annapurna-North face route" (PDF). Retrieved 23 April 2016.
  3. Day, Henry. "'Alpine Journal' – Annapurna Anniversaries" (PDF). Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  4. Contributors, Alpine Journal 1988 pp. 337. NB: Alpine Journal articles referred to hereafter can be found through the Alpine Journal search at https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Browse_search.html (accessed 29/12/2020)
  5. Rob Collister, “Grands Charmoz in Winter”, Alpine Journal 1976 pp 64-68
  6. Henry Day, “Tirich Mir 1969”, Alpine Journal 1979 pp. 79-86
  7. Jon Fleming, “The Army Mountaineering Association Himachal Praedesh Expedition 1973”, Alpine Journal 1974 pp. 21-27
  8. Major MWH Day, "Everest, 1976", Himalayan Journal 35 [1979] https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/35/9/everest-1976/ (Accessed 29 December 2020)
  9. PJ Horniblow, “In the steps of Shipton”, Alpine Journal 1979 pp. 154-157.
  10. Henry Day, “Da Xue Shan, Sichuan, China”, Alpine Journal 1982 pp. 117-120
  11. Luke Hughes, “Xixabangma 1987 – Expedition Jade Venture”, Alpine Journal 1983 pp. 63-70
  12. Henry Day, “Climbing and Kalashnikovs, Part II”, Alpine Journal 2008 pp. 174 – 189


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