Frenchmans Cap

The mountain lies east of the West Coast Range, yet due to its prominence, it can be seen from Macquarie Harbour.[3] It lies south of the Lyell Highway from which it can be viewed from various locations, and south west of Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park.

The peaks of the Frenchmans area include Frenchmans Cap (1,443 metres (4,734 ft)),[1] Clytemnestra and Philps Peak (both 1,280 metres (4,200 ft)), and Philps Ridge (1,200 metres (3,900 ft)).

Frenchmans Cap lies in the traditional lands of the Aboriginal Tasmanians, most likely the Toogee nation.[4] The traditional names for Frenchmans Cap are trullenuer (trul.len.neur),[5] toindy (toin.dy)[6] or mebbelek.[7][8]

Even though the peak was an early landmark for ships sailing the west coast, the first recorded use of Frenchmans Cap was in 1822 in connection with Macquarie Harbour Penal Station, from where the peak was visible. The origin of the name is attributed to its appearance from some angles as looking like a Frenchman's cap, notably the Liberty cap worn during the French Revolution (1789–1799).[9]

A variation of that was reported by Henry Widdowson, who wrote in 1829 that the name was derived from "its generally being covered with snow and bearing some resemblance to the shape of dress which invariably adorns the head of a French Cook".[9]

Frenchmans Cap, March 2016

The distinctive shape of the mountain was used as a guiding beacon by many, largely unsuccessful, parties of escaping convicts as they attempted to struggle through the dense scrub of Western Tasmania to the settled districts further east. It was mentioned as a geographical reference in the account later dictated by convict Alexander Pearce to authorities, following his capture.[9]

The earliest European recorded to have ascended was James Sprent and his trigonometrical party in 1853.[10]

In 1941 the Frenchmans Cap National Park was created and its boundary was in effect the Franklin River.[11][12] This park was subsumed into the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park in the 1990s.

The country around the mountain is invariably referred to by the books and the material written about the Franklin River. Johnson Dean's book gives a graphic account with maps and pictures the nature of the country.[13]

Access to the mountain is usually via a multi-day bushwalk from the Lyell Highway. Parks and Wildlife Service and other authorities in Tasmania give advice about the access and preparation needed – due to the changing conditions of the area.[14] The track is repeatedly overgrown, due to the vegetation and the rainfall of the area.[15][16]

The walk to the peak along the well marked track typically takes two days. The first day of about 16 kilometres (9.9 mi) will bring walkers to Lake Vera Hut. Water is plentiful (and drinkable) in all seasons. Walk time from Lyell Highway to Lake Vera is between six and eight hours.[17] This part of the walk was historically very difficult, including two steep and prolonged ascents separated by the boggy Loddon Plains. The so-called "Sodden Loddons" were almost always muddy and crossing them took two hours or more. In wet weather the mud was frequently waist high, while in the dry it was only knee high. However, since 2013 track upgrades have seen the North Loddon Planes duckboarded, and the trail diverted around the South Loddon Plains through Philps Lead. This has allowed for significant environmental rejuvenation and reduced the difficulty of the first day. It was financed by donations from Dick Smith after he visited and was dismayed with the state of the trail.[18]

The second day's walk is shorter at 9 kilometres (5.6 mi), but steeper. After walking along the shores of Lake Vera the next two hours are spent struggling up the steep inclines to Barron Pass. Once on top the walker is presented with a dramatic view of Frenchmans Cap. From Barron Pass it is approximately another two hours to Tahune Hut,[19] depending on fitness and pack weight. Water is often plentiful before Barron Pass, but scarce from there until reaching Lake Tahune. Walk time from Lake Vera to Lake Tahune is about four hours.

There are two lakes on the way to the summit – Lake Vera, and Lake Tahune – there are huts at both of these locations. Lake Vera Hut was built in 1979 and sleeps 20 people in two two-tier bunk configurations.[20] It is heated by a coal stove.

Three huts have been built at Lake Tahune. Tahune #1 was built shortly after WW2 - it was destroyed by a bushfire in 1966. Tahune #2 was completed in 1971 - a prefabricated design that slept 16 people snugly, also in two two-tier bunks and was heated by a coal fuel stove.[20] The hut was replaced in 2018 by Tahune #3 - an architecturally designed building that boasts excellent thermal properties as well as a hydro-electric power supply. Tahune #3 sleeps 24 people comfortably with heating provided by electric ceiling panels, this hut was also financially aided by the donations from Dick Smith.[21] From Tahune, the summit is an ~2.5hr return trip - this should only be attempted in good weather.

If the weather is clear the view includes the West Coast beaches, Lake Burbury and the many peaks – such as Tasmania's tallest, Mount Ossa – in the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park.

The 50-kilometre (31 mi) plus walk to Frenchmans Cap is typically completed as a return trip on the same track.

For climbers, Frenchmans Cap offers a variety of trad routes on generally sound, quartzite rock. In keeping with the name of the mountain some of these climbs also have French names including A Toi La Gloire (better known as The Sydney Route), a 380-metre (1,250 ft), 13-pitch, grade 17 climb on the south-east face and Tierry Le Fronde, a 150-metre (490 ft), six-pitch, grade 16 climb on the Tahune Face.

Serious climbing has occurred since the 1960s, as detailed in a 1990 article in Rock by Stephen Bunton. Jon Nermuts Tasmanian climbing page serves as the main information resource for routes on the main face[22] as well as Gerry Narkowicz's description in Climb Tasmania.[23]

Frank Hurley's black and white images from the 1950s which are in the National Library online collection, are probably the most evocative and easily accessible images close up of the features around Frenchmans Cap.[24]

Barry Maitland's 2008 mystery novel Bright Air contains a vivid description of a climb of Frenchmans Cap.[25] It also features in For the Term of His Natural Life by Marcus Clarke and the non-fiction book Hell's Gates: The terrible journey of Alexander Pearce, Van Diemen's Land cannibal by Paul Collins (Hardie Grant, 2002). A more recent book is by Simon Kleinig in 2012.[26]

• List of highest mountains of Tasmania
• Walk to the West

• Binks, C.J. (1989). Explorers of Western Tasmania. Launceston, Tas.: Mary Fisher Bookshop. ISBN 0-7316-7300-X.

• Histories of Lake Tahune Hut and Lake Vera Hut.
• "World Heritage Area". Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service. Archived from the original on 21 August 2006. Retrieved 2006-07-23.
• "Frenchmans Cap Track". Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service. Retrieved 13 July 2006.
• "Bark hut with Frenchman's Cap in the background (Hurley, Frank, 1885–1962)". Retrieved 25 July 2006 – via National Library of Australia.
• "View of Frenchmans from surprise valley (Hurley, Frank, 1885–1962)". Retrieved 30 August 2006 – via National Library of Australia.
• "Frenchmans Cap painting by (Piguenit, W. C. 1836–1914) in 1886". Archived from the original on 27 September 2007. Retrieved 30 August 2006 – via State Library of Tasmania.