< Pattern drafting
On a long piece of paper about ( outseam + ( (4 " or 10.4 cm) ) ) long and ( seat + ( (6 " or 15.6 cm) ) ) wide, draw a line down the middle.
- Set up markers as follows :
| Marker | Instruction |
|---|---|
| 0 | Near the top, select a point and mark point 0 . |
| 1 | From 0 down to 1 is ( outseam - ( (1 " or 2.6 cm) ) ) . |
| 2 | From 1 up measure up inseam to 2 . |
| 3 | On 1-2 midway, mark 3 , 3 is midway between 1 and 2 ( ( inseam / 2 ) ). |
| 4 | From 3 is 2" (5.2 cm). |
| * | Square out from points 0 , 2 , 4 , and 1 . |
| 5 | 5 from 2 is ( seat / 5.5 ) . |
| 6 | 6 from 2 is ( seat / 12 ) |
| 7 | 7 from 2 is ( seat / 12 ) |
| 8 | Square up from 6 to locate 8 on line 0 |
| 9 | Square out from 7 to locate 9 on line 6 |
| 10 | 10 from 9 is 0.25 " (0.6 cm) |
| Draw line 8 - 10 . | |
| 11 | 11 from 10 is ( seat / 4 ) |
| 12 | 12 from 8 is ( ( waist / 4 ) + ( (0.5 " or 1.3 cm) ) ) |
| 13 | and 14 from 4 is ( knee_width / 2 ) |
| 14 | |
| 15 | 15 and 16 from 1 is ( cuff_width / 2 ) |
| 16 | |
| 17 | 17 from 1 is ( cuff_depth ? ( ( 3 * cuff_depth ) - ( (0.25 " or 0.6 cm) ) ) : ( (2 " or 5.2 cm) ) ) (allowance for the cuff (if any) is included in this measurement). |
- Square out from 17 .
- The waist line form 8 is squared by line 8 - 10 until it is about 0.25 " (0.6 cm) below line 8 - 12 . Then it curves gently into 12 .
- The fly fall (front rise) follows the straight line 8 - 10 and then makes a shallow curve into 5
- Through 11 the outseam is vertical from about 1 " (2.6 cm) above to 0.5 " (1.3 cm) below. Continue upward, curving into 12 .
- Shape the leg, making the inseam and outseam vertical from the bottom to at least 2 " (5.2 cm) above 15 and 16 and identical to each other from the bottom to the knee.
- Above the knee the inseam is a natural continuation, waiting until almost the top to curve into 5 .
- The outseam also continues naturally above 14 , easing outward to meet the continuation downward from 11 .
- Add notches (for assembly) at the following points: 0 , 14 , 16 , 15 , and 13 .
- In the outseam, 1.5 " (3.9 cm) below the waist edge, and again 6.25 " (16.25 cm) below that (for the front pockets).
- In the fly fall about 1.5 " (3.9 cm) to 2.5 " (6.5 cm) from the inseam: Put the zero end of the tape measure 3/8 " (.97 cm) below the waist edge and measure along the fly fall 1/4 " (0.6 cm) in from the pattern outline.
- Cut the fly notch at the nearest whole inch, and that will be the length of your pants zipper.
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